It's a bright afternoon at Third Point, Malibu. Long lumps stack up outside, stand up as they run down the point, and peel right toward the pier. Catch one, then stay in the pocket and go right. Paddle into position just outside where the waves break, turn toward the beach, and paddle hard as the wave lifts you.
Too far inside and the whitewater rolls you. Take off too late on a pitching face and you'll pearl. Read the swell, and time it.